Himalayan Six Peaks, High Passes
Technical High Himal Climbing Course
What a view!! At 6189m, Island Peak (Imja Tse) is a must-do for the hardy trekker or as an introduction to high altitude climbing for those already familiar with mountaineering. The peak rises 1100m from the valley floor and its views of Mt. Makalu (8481m) and the very close stunning south face of Mt. Lhotse (8501m) and Lhotse shar will stay in your mind forever.
Our objectives for this expedition are Island Peak and its neighbours Mehra (5820m) and Lobuje East (6100m) in the famous Khumbu Valley.
We also visit and have a look at Gokyo Lakes Including 5th lakes, Everest BC and Ama Dablam Base Camp, as well as climbing Dingboche RI and Kala Pattar and Chukung RI! These outstanding mountains offer challenging, but attainable climbing objectives and are an ideal combination for first time expeditionary. The three mountains we plan to attempt are officially classified as 'Trekking Peaks'; however they are still regarded as being challenging and sometimes very demanding climbs. They will give participants the chance to learn rock, snow and ice climbing as well as crevasse rescue and navigation and rope work, and snow and avalanche, ice climbing etc. The course is similar to a ENSA TMC and New Zealand TMC (technical mountaineering course) NNMGA, NMIA, NMA that we knew on Himalaya. With trekking and expedition aspects thrown in, plus the ascent of three major peaks with an optional extension to attempt 6856m.
It is aimed at participants with previous basic mountaineering and/or trekking experience, but we'll hold a mountaineering skills seminar for less experienced participants during the early stages of the expedition. Most members of the trip will get involved in actually placing snow, ice, mix and rock anchors and belaying other team members – all under supervision.
The six peaks expedition will be led by an experienced mountain guide from Nepal, and local climbing Sherpas. Our Nepalese staffs are there to ensure that the camping trek and climbing stages of your trip are a wonderful, fun and safe experience High Himalayan Adventure and Expedition (P) Ltd.
This trip requires a high level of fitness and a few additional items that the normal trekking kit will not contain. Any trip to altitude can be potentially dangerous so every medical and technical precaution is taken to safeguard your safety and success. Comprehensive medical equipment, such as oxygen, Gammov bag and specialized drugs will be on hand. Ropes and other technical safety equipment are also provided: we do not skimp on kit. Safety of the entire group (including kitchen and climbing staff and porters) comes first.
Itinerary
Day 1 Arrive in Kathmandu
Day 2-3 Rock climbing in the Kathmandu valley, technical aspects. Sightseeing and cultural tour around Kathmandu
Day 4 Fly to Lukla
Day 5-11 Trekking up the Khumbu and Gokyo Valleys
Day 12-30 Trekking and climbing
Day 31 Fly to Kathmandu
Day 32 Depart KTM
Arriving into Kathmandu
One of the team will meet you at Kathmandu airport and take you to your hotel. After you settle into your room your trip leaders will bring you up to date with the detailed plans and check over your equipment for the trip.
Kathmandu, trip preparation
We will spend a couple of days practicing some ropes and rock climbing skills in the Katmandu Valley, organizing permits and sightseeing around Kathmandu. The ancient city of Kathmandu is home many to Buddhist and Hindu temples. There are plenty of chaotic streets, markets and restaurants to wander about in.
Trekking in the Khumbu Valley
Like most visitors to the Everest region, we will take the easy option (and save ourselves a long bus trip and a week-long walk) by flying to Lukla. We will take several days to make our way up the valley, leaving plenty of time for our bodies to acclimatizes and to enjoy the fantastic experience of the Nepalese countryside. Taking along our own camping gear and staff means that we have a measure of independence and need not be restricted to staying in the larger villages.
Trekking in the Gokyo Valley
We will head up into the stunning Gokyo Valley where the track clings to the western wall and the valley walls are so steep that steps are needed to surmount parts of them. Until quite recently the Gokyo Valley was visited only by yak herders in the summer months but demand from the trekking industry has seen the expansion of a number of small villages some of which are simply delightful. You will be amazed at the bowling green-smoothness of the walled yak pastures among this amazingly rugged terrain. We will take our time heading up the valley as acclimatization in these early stages of the trip is vitally important. The Gokyo Lakes and Gokyo RI, toward the head of the valley, are stunning.
Crossing back to the Khumbu
We cross the enormously long Gokyo Valley near Dragnag and approach the Cho La – the high route into the Khumbu. The glacier is quite flat and relatively crevasse free – depending on conditions we may not even need our crampons! From Dzongla on the eastern side we head down and around to near the village of Lobuje to make our first real base camp. We will spend a few days on ropes skills and rock climbing on the lower parts of Lobuje and will make a day trip to Kala Pattar, and Everest Base Camp.
Peak number one: Lobuje East
After all this preparation we will be acclimatized and ready for Lobuje East itself. From a high camp which is usually on rock, the ascent of stunning Lobuje East (6119m) requires cramponing on moderate snow with quite serious exposure to the valley below. As a consequence we will have the opportunity to test out our rope technique on the way to a spectacular view to Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Pomori and innumerable white fangs all around.
Peak number two: Mera
Our Kongma La camp also makes a great base camp for a scramble up Mehra (5820m). The climb to the summit of Mehra is relatively straight forward and provides fantastic views of the valleys all around and particularly back to Lobuje East and its neighbours. From there we trek east, to Chhukung and on to Island Peak.
Peak number three: Island Peak
Island Peak (Imja Tse) may be climbed by a number of different routes. We intend to carry out a 'Grand Traverse', ascending The Cook's ridge, traversing the south west summit ridge and descending the standard route. The summit icecap is cut with crevasses and there is some steep ground, so we will make use of our recently polished glacial travel, cramponing and rope skills. This is a truly spectacular peak, surrounded by enormous mountains, and the technical nature of our course means that we can explore some of its less travelled slopes.
Peak / RI
(A) Ri Number one _ Gokyo RI,
(B) RI Number Two – Kalapather,
(C) RI Number Three - Chukung RI
High Himalayan Adventure and Expedition (P) Ltd. offering you a Himalayan Six peaks Trekking and Expedition!!!
Attitude
Mentally, you should not be on this expedition unless you think you can climb to the summit, there is a lot of power is positive thinking. At the same time you must be prepared for disappointment; conditions may not be perfect, you may struggle at extreme altitude etc.
This is a professionally lead expedition. Your guide and crew are there to manage the logistics of the expedition not to haul you up the mountain or be personal servants. Your guide is there because he is familiar with the mountain and big expeditions, to assist in being a climbing partner, to make difficult judgment decisions and to generally manage the expedition. Your guide will accompany the team on the majority of the acclimatization trips and will endeavor to summit with you, but this is not a guarantee. The Sherpas will summit with the expedition members.
We live together for more than a month so please have consideration for your fellow team members, crew and guide, and other mountaineers. Being polite and reasonable goes a long way; even minor dehydration makes almost anyone surprisingly irritable and intractable).
Experience and fitness
Despite the relatively non-technical nature you MUST have some mountaineering experience and MUST have been to 6000m before. The fitter you are when you arrive the better. You must be at least moderately fit, your fitness will build remarkably on the mountain. Don't underestimate the difficulty and strength of will required to climb at over 7000m.
Insurance: Required.
Note: Make sure you have a good insurance covering search and rescue Medical expenses and Transportation to Home country and Cancellation Policy
Namaste !
